Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Bus-ted

More bus pics to add to the collection! As we trek again across Zim on another roadtrip, here are some more great bus names we have found in our strange experience with the humorous public transport system in Southern Africa:

"God Is Lord, Grasshopper"

"Golden Breed"

"Angel Theo"

"Takomborerwa" ("We Have Been Blessed")

"Man City"

 
"No Way Out"  "Red Carpet" (notice the spelling above)

"Rise Up and Stand Firm"

"Gokoko Power"  "No Going Back" 
(Gokoko refers to a famous British juvenile book series about a train.)

"Major"

"O'Neal"

"My Messiah"

Mighty Crown

And here a few last ones I would have killed to get a picture of:

3 Missed Calls
The Big Five
Boom Boom Boom
The Blessing
Blessed
Blessings
Bless It Up
Count Your Blessings
Why U Cry?
Master Key
Moving Couch
Getting You There
Amen and Amen
Can I Get an Amen?
Doing Our Job
And my favorite this batch?  Sniper Baby Boy

Friday, October 18, 2013

Purple Blankets: The Jacaranda


I’m pretty sure if someone flew over Harare right now, they would find it looks like a blanket of purple.  Just as we recognize spring from the msasa trees in the region, summer would never be official without the jacarandas.  Meet one of my favorite things about southern Africa:  the jacaranda tree.

The jacaranda (jack-ah-ran-dah), initially a South American ornamental tree, has an interesting history in Harare.  Planted in the early 1900s, the trees defined the city, known as the “City of Flowering Trees” until the 1960s.  It was then that the city council decided too many of its once lustrous trees had been removed for the growth of four lane roads and re-declared the city “The City of Sunshine.”  I find it hard to believe one tree has been removed from the looks of our neighborhood.

Blooming in October and November, this long lasting flower comes in hues ranging from bright blue to purple.  The trees have such an abundance of flowers, that the fallen ones create a blanket of purple on the ground that often mirrors the purple canopy above. Without its flowers, though, the tree is easily identifiable during other times of the year, as well.  Its seed pods, half the size of my hand, are flat atypical ovals with a hard stem. In layman's terms, these seed pods are known for looking like stingrays. 

Pretoria, South Africa, is now known as "The Jacaranda City."  The blooming of these well-known trees coincides with the University of Pretoria's year end exams.  A well known legend has it that should you be hit in the head by a falling jacaranda flower, you will pass all of your tests.

Though jacarandas are known to cause a great deal of allergy problems to local residents, most people would say they are worth it- two months of living under these whimsical canopies makes Harare a magical place.

 



Friday, October 11, 2013

Foods & Supplies Continued: A Healthier Africa?

After years spent in the aisles of Wholefoods, a store we lovingly referred to as Wholepaycheck, looking at labels and organic free-range stickers became second nature to us. When we decided to move, us lovers-of-all-things-green assumed that relocating to Africa meant a healthier food supply, more locally grown food, and pretty much everything organic.   Unfortunately this assumption has left us disappointed time and again.  We have been eating our misconceptions all year.

After believing for years that the pesticides, processed foods, and Genetically Modified Organisms populating our US grocery aisles were poisoning us, we have been pretty shocked to find that getting away from these things is not as easy as crossing a border or an ocean.  I am sorry to say it, my friends, but the food supply even in Third World countries appears to be full of these things.

Because of its recent agricultural history, Zim lives on imports.  Our food comes from a variety of places, including Zambia, India, Britain, and especially China and South Africa.  Few goods actually come from our country.  In addition to giant box stores and small groceries, we also have vegetable stands and roadside markets everywhere.  But we have come to find out that many of these items are sourced by imports brought over the borders, as well as by people who shop at box stores and then take them to roadsides.  Not quite the quaint locally grown food we had hoped for!

Even most of the maize/sadza grown on small subsistence family farms is GMO, and often grown in combination with a number of chemicals.  After a year of having a large garden in our Zim yard, we can attest.  Keeping African pests away, whether it is colonies of ants and termites, rats and mice, cutworm, grubs, or birds, going organic is extra challenging here among the tropical wildlife.  Our gardener begs us for "chemicals" for the garden.  He doesn't know what kind, he just wants something to keep the pests away.  Soap solutions, coffee grounds, and vinegar have helped us moderately.  But we plant and plant and plant.  And we reap about 20 percent of what we sew.  It’s hard to blame challenged farmers  -uneducated about environmental concerns and trying desperately to feed their families- for dumping magically helpful pesticides onto their crops whenever they’re able.

Labeling laws are also different in this country.  Many goods do not have labels, or have labels that say things like “herbs and other ingredients.”  The goods that do have well explained labels are usually from imported processed products that have made a very long journey, and whose ingredients are, for example, fifty unidentifiable items long.  It makes eating healthy even harder than in the US, where we at least always had some labels to navigate through its notorious landmines of fake food.

Alternatives are difficult to find.  Though the shelves are more plentiful every day, things like coconut oil, alternative milks and flours, gluten-free products, and other foods made for those with allergies or specific diet preferences are not available.  Safe seafood can also be difficult to obtain, as the country is landlocked. Though the lack of alternatives is not at all surprising to us, it adds to the challenge of eating the way we would like to.  People here are clearly not as often exposed to things like the "latest health craze" or recent studies on heart health, cancer research, etc.  So products that are exploding with popularity on American health-food shelves are often no-where to be found in Southern Africa.

I would be remiss if I didn't also mention the expense of eating healthy in Africa.  Though there are hundreds of thousands of people who live on less than $50 a month in Zim, no one would ever say they are well nourished and enjoy a diverse diet.  In order to eat diversely and nutritiously, the price tag is high. Nuts, for example, are so expensive that a six inch tall tub of mostly-raisin (pictured) trail mix is over twelve dollars.  Our family does not eat as diversely and healthily here as we did in our American days of Wholepaycheck.  And yet, we spend more on groceries here than when we ate only organic, gluten free food from the bustling Columbus Circle Whole Foods in the heart of expensive New York City.

Our own garden in our backyard is our saving grace.  Though we cannot find organic seeds, or even just un-dyed seeds that are not a bright blue, the resulting produce could not be fresher or more in-season.  And aside from the rotting batteries and shards of glass we often pull from the soil as we dig, the produce -uglier than a US government shutdown- is extremely cheap and entirely chemical free. (Never mind the typhoid water. Otherwise it's safe, I swear...)

I ask myself all the time if we are healthier or less healthy on this continent than our last.  It is always surprising to me that I don't seem to have the easy answer I expected...

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Foods & Supplies Continued: The Ingredient List


Our running joke is that pretty much everything we Americans cook or eat in Zim has one common ingredient:  substitutions.  We eat squash pie for Thanksgiving. Put sadza in our (brittle) cornbread.  And make s'mores with tea biscuits.

There is almost nothing we make in our household that does not have some form of substitution.  Here are some items that are very difficult to find:

Chocolate chips: You've heard of the superiority of European chocolate, and how American chocolate is sub-par and too waxy.  Meet the lowest of them all: African chocolate.  Most often chocolate here is inconsistent at best.  Baking chocolate will sometimes melt and sometimes harden.  It is extremely expensive. And there are mystery ingredients that make it often taste more like a fudge-cicle than a piece of chocolate.  And actual, proper chocolate chips are still impossible to find.  The one chocolaty exception? A specialty store in the Northern Suburbs of Harare that carries Belgian chocolates...  One dollar per tiny piece, but sooo delicious.

Limes: Almost unknown here.  Most locals I have spoken to have never tasted lime.  This blows my mind, as lemons are available year-round by the truck-full, and because lime is one of my favorite flavors to put into a variety of things, from pancakes to pies.  So many avocados here, but no limes?  Some might call that downright torture.

Corn flower/Corn flour: Here "corn flower" means cauliflower.  "Corn Flour" is what Americans call corn starch.  Confusing?  Yes.  And want cornmeal?  You're out of luck. No such thing.  Buy some mealiepap and do your best!

Corn chips: Non existent.  This blows my mind in a country brimming with corn.  But here all corn is used for the favorite comfort dish, also known as the national dish of Zimbabwe: sadza. The closest thing we Americans have to tortilla chips/corn chips is a thing that looks like a tortilla called a "rotie."  We cut them in four pieces, bake them for a little while, and they harden into flour chips. No corn chips in a country full of avocados and salsa ingredients??  Insanity!

Guacamole: Lovingly called "avos" here, avocados are so prevalent that if you buy an avocado at the grocery store, you need more friends.  These trees are so prolific, one friend's good avocado tree can supply at least twelve families with avos for a year!  Still, few know how to make guacomole here. My staff asked me to teach them how to make it, as most avos here are only used at breakfast, mashed on a piece of toast. The food available in this country looks so very similar to that available in Mexico... yet it is amazing how different cultures evolve and produce their own uses for food!

Sweet Potatoes: Sweet potatoes in Africa are an entirely different beast than those in North America.  My child has gone from loving them to hating them.  Sweet potatoes in Zim are a starchy white potato that can literally be well over a foot long and hard as a rock.  Even when cooked for a long amount of time, these mushy monsters still maintain a dry, almost chalky texture.  Save your butter and ketchup for something else- these sweet potatoes offer little to the palate, let alone anything sweet!


Peanuts: Peanuts, also referred to as "ground nuts" are everywhere in this country, as is peanut butter.  But peanut oil has never been seen on a grocery shelf.

Cheese: There are three basic kinds of cheese in our country.  Feta (very mild here-yum), mozarella (never fresh or very tasty, but always non-offensive), and gouda.  Pronounced gow-dah, this cheese comes in every shape, size, color, and flavor. (Though none of it tastes like the gouda we eat in America.) What I wouldn't give for a little swiss cheese on a sandwich or some fresh mozarella to go with the plethora of tomatoes and basil in this country...  Here is Jonas' favorite gouda, which I liken to cardboard and feet.  Do take note of the description:


Stay tuned for more on food this week...

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Foods & Supplies: The Shelves

One year can make a difference, indeed.  

Though the country continues to progress and regress in a variety of ways since the 2008/2009 "Imbalance," as it is called by locals, a number of changes are detectable just within our past year living in Zim.  As I've mentioned in previous posts, the country went through a period of empty grocery stores, out-of-control inflation, farm take-overs, and currency problems. During that time the population survived by crossing borders, or paying others, to purchase goods in other countries and haul items back. Though unemployment remains high in 2013 (95%, according to CNN!), the economy has leveled out.  And although it may be hard to feel this real-life progress in a number of ways, grocery shelves may speak louder than any news report can.

Last August we entered the country somewhat satisfied with the products available to us. Stores that literally only carried ketchup and beans among empty shelves in 2009 had recovered enough that they were able to stock more and more products as the months went by.  We found shelves full, though at times there were entire aisles full of the same product (usually soap), displayed one or two bottles deep.  


 
(here, an entire aisle is full of dish washing soap and another is full of toilet paper... yet the baby cart would indicate the previously upscale nature of this store)

Variety and brand choice was not an option. And staples like flour, sugar, and bread could not always be counted on.  This we found most challenging. We expected not to find specialty things like make-up or toothpaste.  But it was difficult to go to the store and find out they were out of something like flour or sugar for another three weeks.  


Jonas' birthday last October was memorable for me.  That's because I spent much of the day looking for one staple: sugar.  Unable to finish Jonas' cake, I trudged to four different stores until I finally found a bag a few kilometers farther than my feet could carry me.  "Sugar?  The stores did not order enough sugar? How is that possible?!" I grumbled as I sweated between stores.  The next time I saw sugar on a grocery shelf, I felt compelled to buy five bags... which everyone else did, too...  And hence the stores would run out for another three weeks!  


A trip to the store was always hit or miss.  And this meant hoarding when we found things.  We used to joke that the stores never reordered fast selling items because that meant more work for them.  "Ugg- we always have to re-stock that flour.  Let's just stop ordering it."  And that, in a nutshell, is the business sense one can often encounter on this amusing continent.


One year later I can smile about trudging along to find groceries.  Because the shelves are different for sure.  If you lived in Zim during The Imbalance, you would have wanted to be a travel agent or a deep-freeze salesman.  Three years later, you would want to be opening a grocery store.  Though we can't count on every product being available, the staples are dependable. South African chains are starting to move in.  Choices abound. And shelves are full.  



 
(here, at a newly opened South African chain store in Zim, options are growing.  Though our choices are hilariously strange at times, we have choices none the less!)

One of the biggest questions that friends, used to seeing reports of African famines on their televisions, ask us about Africa is our food supply.  My answers do not speak for the continent entirely, but rather just our one year in a rapidly changing Zim.  My answers are entirely different now than a year ago, as we watch (and eat!) the recovery that is happening daily on the shelves around us.  Stay tuned for more thoughts about food in my upcoming posts...


* * Please note that this blog is never intended to provide or participate in political commentary in any way. * *

Friday, October 4, 2013

Typhoid Trials

As I sat by our housekeepers’ hospital bed last weekend, watching her writhing in pain as tears rolled from her swollen eyes, my head spun.  I’d like to present myself as the brave hero that was nothing but confident that everything would be fine, but that would be entirely untrue.  Thoughts of handling a Shona funeral, Ziwone’s baby, and what I’d tell her husband crept into my mind.  And hospital bills…

I had refused to do it.  I just could not drop her off at P.N., the federally run hospital downtown used by gardeners and housekeepers all over the city.  The hospital is notorious for its day-long waiting lines full of corpses and all body fluids. When I thought about our gardener’s  uncle, who died in that very waiting line just a few short months ago, I turned the car and took Ziwone to a private hospital. It was more expensive for sure, but she was in bed hooked up to an I.V. within ten minutes.  And thank goodness she was.  It was typhoid.

Our first contact with typhoid fever has led to an exhausting week of medical tests for everyone on our property, clinics and hospital visits, and water samples.  Our high-elevation city of Harare has an amazing track record when it comes to malaria. But it is known for its outbreaks of typhoid, a serious, life-threatening disease still present in the Third World. The city’s water supply is often compromised with the bacteria, causing epidemic rampages among lower socio-economic citizens who use the water supply as their only available source of water.

Boreholes (sort of like private wells) on properties throughout the city are sworn to be safe.  But occasionally septic seepage can infect a borehole or, in some cases, an entire neighborhood.  When a person tests positive for typhoid, the city sends an investigator to test the water, as it is serious business.  Though we did have an investigator come quickly, he took samples from our hot water geyser when we had no electricity to run our borehole pump.  Therefore the accuracy of his test is anything but reliable, so we await a private company’s results.

Typhoid can be spread a number of ways.  Though it is a salmonella bacteria most often transported in water, it can be found on fresh produce washed with infected water, communicable through bodily fluids, and occasionally carried by an insect that has recently landed on infected feces.  It is a good reminder, if nothing else, to keep our guard up despite our comfort in the Third World. 

While we await our water results, we had everyone on our property tested. Four people tested positive for typhoid and were treated immediately, including little Lilly. Kurt, Jonas, and I, all vaccinated last year, were left unscathed. We’re quite thankful after watching the agony of Ziwone, who is slowly on the mend. 

Now to go buy some more bottled water…

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Hitchhikers


Hitchhiking is more than common in Africa. Still, I was surprised to find two hitchhikers waiting on my car today; these peacocks needed a ride downtown.  Unfortunately I was going the other way...


Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Muboora

So I don’t get to participate in the Northeast’s fall festivities for yet another year.  Sigh.

But, I am getting my share of pumpkins during my Zim spring.  As this prevalent crop just starts its growing season across the landscape on Shona farms throughout the country, I thought I’d share a new way to enjoy the pumpkin plant for all of you Americans charging towards the quickly upcoming Halloween season.

Cooking a foreign dish can be challenging when ingredients are hard to find.  But this popular Shona dish is sure to be a breeze, as long as you have access to a pumpkin plant.  Do give it a try! Meet Muboora:

When this boastful pumpkin plant decided to take over my herb garden, I decided it was the perfect time to have our housekeeper Ziwone teach me how to cook Muboora.

 
 First Ziwone and I cut the pumpkin leaves from the vine.  If you want the plant to continue growing and producing pumpkins, you can cut one third of the leaves or less without hurting it.  In fact, leaf cutting is like pruning, it encourages new growth. If you do not want the plant growing anymore, you can harvest all the leaves, though the larger ones may be a little tougher and require a little longer to cook.

 
 Once washed (wash well- pumpkin leaves can get very dirty when rain splatters mud on the under-side of the leaves), we pull the tough strings off of the stems.  There are about three on each stem.

 We cut the leaves into smaller pieces that will cook faster.  Fuel, whether it is a gas-top stove or wood fire (more common), is not abundant.  Small pieces cook more efficiently.

 We also chop one beautifully red tomato.  The recipe does not require it, but if you have a small onion, it can be cooked in this recipe also... right before the tomatoes are cooked.

 First we boil the pumpkin leaves in water.

 
 When they are done, drain the leaves well.

 Using the previous pot helps to save dish-washing supplies later.  Here we throw the tomato in with a little olive oil.

 We cook it down until it is slightly mushy.  Yum!  Smells good...

 The cooked pumpkin leaves are mixed back into the pot. We stir and cook a teeny bit longer to blend the taste of the tomato into the leaves.

Salt and pepper to taste, and voila! Eat it with rice, sadza, or alone. This is delicious, uber-healthy muboora.  Try it tonight!

Monday, September 23, 2013

Matamba: The Monkey Orange


As I learned during my first taste recently, the monkey orange, known in Shona as a matamba, is a round fruit the size of a large orange.  Edible to humans and animals, and growing in both tropical and sub-tropical Africa, the “orange” is not really an orange at all, but instead a rock-hard green fruit that ripens into yellow. Once cracked open by blunt force, the inside of the monkey orange proves to be anything but pretty. 



Its gooey, gelatinous insides look like an elephant sneezed around the seeds.  If one can get over the mucous-y texture, the fruit actually tastes mildly genteel. Each sweet and sour tear-drop shaped piece holds a large seed inside of the same shape.  



One eats around the seed, which takes quite a lot of effort to extract, and then spits it out.  



This little known fruit grows on trees known for their superior wood. The fruit trees have recently been introduced to Israel as a potential commercial crop, though my guess is that it will be a hard sell!  The fruit is not really used for many purposes other than direct eating, and -though I’m glad I tried it once- I don’t have a strong desire to scout out this rare fruit again anytime soon.  Good luck, commercial farmers!

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Coming Soon to a Neighborhood Near You: The Internet

Laying the cable: these guys made it to our street!  Finally. 
The irony of using low-tech tools to bring us into the 21st Century...

Saturday, September 14, 2013

Looks Like Spring: The Msasa Tree

I find it ironic that for a few moments it almost lines up with America’s fall. When the msasa trees of southern Africa bloom with a bang into an array of purple to red to brown, one knows the season. But here it’s not fall, it’s spring! 

Msasa (mah-sah-sah) trees dot the tropical woodland landscape of Zim, where locals have a great pride for the native species. The msasa is most famous for bearing marks of the seasons right on schedule throughout the year.  The famous tree loses its leaves as the cool season begins gradually in May. In August, the trees are entirely bare, echoing the barren cold weather that is almost at an end.  By late August, as spring blows in, the colorful leaves begin to pop out.  Here the color indicates growing life, rather than the deadening of American leaves that fall in a colorful menagerie.  After 20-25 days, the msasa leaves shift to a dark green color before the tree’s tiny, pungent, green flowers appear.  In April, the 4-6 inch seed pods that hang from the Msasa branches pop open explosively, launching flat seeds in all directions.
The top two pictures are too beautiful to be taken by me! Below are some pictures of our recent visit to the Lake Chivero area.  The severe dryness of the landscape allows the prominent colors of the msasas to take center stage. 
 
As a medium sized tree found only in south-eastern Africa, the msasa grows best in tropical woodlands in which there is a stark difference between the wet and dry season. The tree is known for growing very slowly and therefore is rarely found outside of natural occurrence. The bark of the msasa is useful, as it contains tannin, used for tanning animal hides.  The tree, however, provides an inferior timber. It is considered heavy and too frail to be useful for most wood furniture or building, and is instead most often used for firewood.  I find the tree most useful to the eyes.  Welcome, spring in southern Africa!

 

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Guilty Privileged White Girl vs. the Housekeeper Thing

The horrors of having someone wash my car… The nightmare of having an employee fold my towels…  The terror of coming home and realizing someone has washed my dishes… My friends liken it to the pretty girl complaining about having too many boys interested in her. Nobody wants to hear about the horrible struggles of having a housekeeper. And yet, let me admit to you while I hope you attempt to have a teeny bit of sympathy, having staff has not been easy for this American girl. 

Let me begin this discussion with a little info.  Most housekeepers, nannies, and gardeners in my country are Shona or Ndebele.  They are referred to as “staff” or “domestics” here.  But every once in a while a local white will slip and refer to their staff as “servants” or refer to an employer as an “owner.”  This chokes me every time. Minimum wage is $90 a month for these positions, though we have heard oodles of stories in which staff have worked for their negligent employers for up to a year without being paid.  Most people in these positions are paid somewhere between $100-$150 per month. Staff that have been with the same employers for a long time have worked their way up to receiving more than that.

Let me also begin this discussion I’ve carefully avoided for a year by explaining to you that the last movie my husband and I watched before moving to Africa was a little thing called, “The Help.”  (If you haven’t seen this, do.)

Arriving in our African country was like landing in America’s most segregated 1950’s South.  Staff are treated in a variety of ways; most of the time I have to keep my mouth shut and remember that I cannot save the world or undo someone’s lifetime of racism in a single comment.  But I have seen enough to write a sequel to the movie. 

We arrived on the continent knowing that having staff to upkeep the school-lent house was expected.  As energetic do-it-yourselfers, this was uncomfortable to us.  We love to cook and garden and sew.  We call these things hobbies, not work.  But we gave ourselves a pep talk on providing employment for others and started with a gardener and housekeeper. 

After a few months, we dismissed the fulltime housekeeper for about twenty reasons too long to list.  To be brief and impersonal, our shipment of furniture had not yet arrived. She was done cleaning the house thoroughly every day within two hours.  And meanwhile we were on the verge of bankruptcy because of our botched house sale in the US.  Here we were scraping change to pay a mortgage while I was paying someone to wash my oven daily.  She had to go, though I cried a lot over the move and didn’t rest til we’d found her another position.  

I discussed my torturous trepidations with a variety of others a hundred times over.

Other: “You are employing someone.  That’s huge in a country with 95 percent unemployment.”

Me: “But you’re participating in a system you find sickening.”

Other: “But at least your staff have a job.  And you treat them far better than most people.”

Me: “But too many people pat themselves on the back about that. You meanwhile know they deserve more money.  They’d be horrified if they knew how much money you’ve made so far in life.”


Other: “With just a few hundred dollars a month, you are actually supporting more like twenty or thirty people, as most of their family doesn’t have a job. That’s nothing to feel guilty about. Besides, you can’t explain things like student loan debt or a US mortgage to your employees.”


Me: “But I’m still more privileged despite these debts.”


Other: “It’s all about perspective.  You’re feeling too guilty.  You’re actually less privileged because of your debts.  You’re working away to repay while we Africans don’t have that hanging over our heads.  We just have a clean slate to build from.”


Me: “But you also can’t help but feel guilty when you tell your staff you wish you could pay them more but can’t, while you meanwhile spend more on groceries than double their salary. That feels hypocritical, even when you really seriously can’t pay more.”


Other: “Speaking of hypocritical, you are paying ‘white people prices’ that support others.  You can’t get food or other things as cheaply.  This is one of the most expensive African countries to live in.  Your staff knows how to live on one hundred dollars a month quite well.”

Me: “Yes, it’s called malnutrition.”

Other: “No, it’s called culture.  If you paid your staff five times what you pay them now, they would still eat the same foods.”

Me: “That seems like a big assumption, that poverty is preferred because it’s part of ‘culture’.”

Other: “They don’t see it as poverty, though. Besides, you provide some food, housing, medicine, hand-me-downs, health insurance and electricity. These are things they would not otherwise have.”

Me: “Ugg.  And really I only want to be responsible for my family!  Look at how much more I worry about with staff.  Others’ lives are in my hands.  I can’t even bake someone cookies with margarine without feeling personally responsible for the injury to their heart health. I’d rather just worry about finding time to cut the lawn.”


Other: “Yeah, but your time is worth much more per hour than theirs.  You put a higher value on your time.”

Me: “That sounds like a horribly aristocratic thing to say.”

Other: “I mean that the time it takes you to do the dishes yourself in a week is far more precious than just paying someone a small amount to do what you would charge much more for.  Your time with your son is worth a lot.”

Me: “Meanwhile, my child is being called, “Little Gentleman” by the staff’s children. And he’s watching his mother tell others how she wants things, even though they live here, too.”

Other: “But you’re supposed to dictate things. It’s your house.”


Me: “But it doesn’t feel that way at all when I’m constantly surrounded by others. Yesterday I had four people working on the house and yard around me as I played outside.  The staff’s kids are on my property and need supervision, so I end up having to play with them.  And I didn’t sign up to be a live-in babysitter, especially when I don’t have the right to tell my staff how to raise their kids.”

Other: “But you do have the right. It’s your property. If you want the kids staying in back, they should do that.”

Me: “While meanwhile my child gets to hang out with the gardener? That doesn’t seem fair. Don’t you think my staff would rather be playing with their kids?”

Other: “No, they want to be feeding their kids. Sure, anyone would kill for the opportunity to have a few years off from housework while their kid was little. So don’t complain about what you get.  But at the same time your husband isn’t getting to play with his kid.  He has to work and is grateful for his job, just like your staff is.”

The important but painful conversation left me feeling sick every time. Sometimes it brought out people’s lazy sides.  Or their selfish sides.  Or worst, their racist sides.  I finally stopped having the conversation out loud and chewed on it by myself.  I hemmed and hawed for five months.  I tortured myself daily as my child tugged on my pants for attention while I stood at the sink doing dishes myself.  I debated while I interrupted our baseball game to switch the laundry.  I questioned as I stopped reading to my child to take cookies out of the oven.  I wondered as I ran from Jonas’ bathtub to answer the gate.  I pondered over and over, stuck in a muddy mess somewhere that buried the fine line between my selfishness and guilt, my privilege and burdensome American debt, my parenting ideals and capability as a competent independent woman.

After we got our American house rented and sat back on stable financial ground, the subject of bringing a housekeeper in came up once again.  And finally we made the decision.  Less for our own mental comfort and more for our staff and child’s physical comforts, we decided.  No one would raise our child for us.  We would never have a nanny.  Or anyone who plays with my child while her own are fending for themselves.  Jonas, while adoring our staff, will not be raised by someone other than his parents, as so many children in this country are.  Every shoelace that needs to be tied, every nose that needs to be wiped, every toy that has to be picked up, that’s me.  All me.  My job. 

But a housekeeper? Oh, alright... 

Four months ago we settled on a half-time housekeeper, Ziwone, who we pay a fulltime salary.  And so we live with five other people on our property, never quite alone.  I still do things like cooking and throwing a load of laundry into the machine.  And my child knows who takes care of him.  And that if the housekeeper isn’t around, I know where the broom is. 

I am breathing-in the luxury on most days.  After all, I haven’t washed a dish in four months.  But I’m still feeling guilty and uncomfortable on other days.  And so the debate continues, most likely until the day we move away…

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Grieving Pretty


I am so angry.

And so very heartbroken. 

Usually death affects us personally because it reminds us of our own mortality. Scary unknowns.  The fleeting state of life. Grief for those left behind. But today death touched me in a new way. It left me flaming mad.  And drenched in a watery, exhausted sadness. 

My special baby at the orphanage died.  

Her name was Pretty.  

Pretty, found on the side of a road in our city, who I had first met when she was five days old. Pretty, who I bothered the staff with too many times.  Pretty, who we bought diapers for and brought clothes to.  Pretty, who was not thriving.  Pretty, who I had instructed the “care workers” to take to the doctor for the obvious, severe thrush infection in her mouth identical to one my baby had had years before. Pretty, who had the same diaper on after friend Julie and I returned to the orphanage four days after it was put on her.  Pretty, who was so malnourished that after those four days the diaper was bone dry.  Pretty, who I was not allowed to take to the doctor. Pretty, who we scoured the orphanage to find bottles for.  Pretty, who we tried desperately to cool off in her constantly fevered, bundled state.  Pretty, who lay in her crib untouched by staff for days. Pretty,who I was not allowed to adopt because I am foreign. 

I can’t save the world, but I definitely didn’t save Pretty.

The irony is hitting me hard.  I was about to post a piece of writing I entitled, “The Communal Child.”  It was about the parenting I’ve seen in my African country.  And how the saying “it takes a village” has never been more true than here.  But it’s in the trash. Because today is all about what happens when people do not take personal responsibility in their jobs, in their parenting, or in their care for a child.

Pretty is one of thousands.  But I will console myself that she is finally out of the system.  And that there are at least a few people crying for her sake tonight.  Fly away fast, little girl.

  


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