Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Rape in the Kitchen

I probably don’t have to tell you how surprised I was to find out that one of the most common vegetables in Zimbabwe is a leafy green called “rape.” Leaving aside all forms of tacky inappropriate jokes, the word is a common word in Shona dinner-speak. 

When I asked our first housekeeper, Beauty, to teach me how to make this popular green last year, she said, “Uggh.  You want to eat more expensive vegetables. That one is terrible.”  Of course, at the time we were eating all of our meals with Beauty –usually doing the cooking for her- so her passion for introducing us to run-of-the-mill Shona food was less than enthusiastic compared to her enthusiasm for learning our American cuisine.

It is hard to find recipes for Shona food, or even a lot about it online.  That is because it is often as simple as a green vegetable cooked or boiled with salt and pepper, then eaten with hot sadza.  Add in margarine, bread, sugar, tea, and a small amount of fruit, and you have the makings of a very typical Shona diet. Quite bluntly, no matter which other cuisines it is compared to, Shona food is notorious for being the less desirable.  It is common for those of Shona culture lifted out of poverty to add other habits of eating to their repertoire when given the opportunity.  These new habits are often influenced by the surrounding English cuisine and include adding more cheese, milk, butter, and meat to the diet.  (As I often say, I am speaking in very general terms here, so please note that there are for sure people who will not fall under this description.)

Last month I asked our housekeeper, Ziwone, about Shona food traditions at Christmas time.  She smiled shyly and said “We always have apple. Very special.”

“Oh,” I’d said.  Is that a cooked dish?  Do you use some spices?”  I am always shamelessly open to trying new recipes.

“No…” she had said. “We just cut the apple and eat it.”

Oh, baby.  Am I ever spoiled.

Back to rape.  When I saw a beautiful, bright green bunch of rape yesterday at the market, I decided it was finally time to embrace a new vegetable.  I brought home the bunch and showed our housekeeper, Ziwone, asking how to cook this emerald-colored Shona treasure.

“We cook the same way as pumpkin leaves…and spinach… and cabbage.”

“Oh,” I’d said.  “…Isn’t that the same way you cook beet greens?”

“Yes… and squash leaves… and collard greens.”

You get my drift.  Wash.  Cut into small pieces. Cook with water.  Then add a tomato and salt.  A bit of onion if you are lucky. No creativity necessary.  Boom.  Done.

Meet rape, which, coincidentally, tastes a lot like pumpkin leaves… or spinach… or cabbage… or beet greens… or squash leaves…or collard greens….