Don't be frightened by the words "tourist destination." As one of the most visited places on the continent of Africa, the oasis known as
Victoria Falls really does feel like paradise. The Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls surrounding this jaw-dropping attraction is nothing if not a hamlet of tourism for the country of Zim. Few tourists pass through the country without making a stop to this north-western corner of the country.
In addition to seeing the falls, there is plenty to do from the adventurous to the relaxing: bungee jumping, rafting, sunset cruises, lion walks, elephant rides, high tea, shopping, swimming, spas, and hiking. In a place that showcases some of the best of Africa, I happily spent my days there with more to do than I had time for. Looking one warm day for a new perspective of the misty falls and wanting get some wiggles out of my little one without risking breaking items in a shop, we decided to cross the bridge into Zambia. Though it doesn't sound as official as some of the other activities I've mentioned, everyone visiting Vic Falls must check out the incredible Vic Falls Bridge, one of only three ways to cross the roaring Zambezi River from Zim to Zambia.
As the fruition of Cecil Rhodes' vision to connect Zambia and Zimbabwe as a part of the (never finished) Capetown to Cairo railway, the Victoria Falls Bridge spans the beastly second gorge of Victoria Falls. Built in just 14 months, the bridge was constructed first in England before making its way in pieces to be hung across a misty span of 198 meters above a raging river full of whirlpools and crocodiles. Without a single pier in the water, the bridge floats in mid-air, stretching its arms to connect two rumbling pieces of land that vibrate with the force of the nearby falls. It hurts my brain to think of how this would be built today. But this beautiful link between two countries was completed in
1905, a feat as big as the falls themselves!
Below are some pictures of our trek to the Zambian side of the Zambezi River, as well as the ins and outs of getting through this cross-point for pedestrians, cars, and trains alike.
Pedestrians wanting access to the bridge just need to continue walking down the one and only road (A8) that borders Zimbabwe´s Victoria Falls National Park.
On the bridge itself, there are guided tours that focus on the bridge's construction. These tours go under the main deck of the bridge, offering a unique perspective.
Most visitors who stop in the Zim-Zam immigration office find themselves waived through with little problem, a quick glance at the books, and no stamp in the passport.
Pedestrians get through faster than monkeys, cars, trucks and trains, which often crawl or sit in inspection lines for hours.
It seemed rickety for a bridge that has a two lane highway and so much on it... This sign made us a little nervous!
Our view from above. As with almost all of my other Vic Falls photos: rainbows everywhere! The shadow of the bridge can be seen on the bottom left.
On either end of the bridge, aggressive men tried to convince us to bite the bullet and bungee jump. The Shearwater Bungee Jump provides an 111 meter (364 foot) bungee drop above one of the world's most dangerous rivers. If the whirlpools, the fast flow and boulders, or the fall itself does not kill you, the parasites and bacteria in the water might! This particular bungee sight is famous for a number of safety accidents. Above we snickered as, to get across the bridge on the only pedestrian path, we all had to straddle and hop over a hair dryer cord in an awkward apologetic moment. The blow dryer was being used to fix a bungee cord at the jump sight.
That'll make your customers confident in you.
Vendors around the bridge, carrying bracelets and other small items, are aggressive to say the least. Though they approached us in friendly ways with determined chit-chat, their incessant conversation and refusal to leave us alone was not ended until we finally, at least 15 minutes later, explained in our own aggressive way that we were in no way interested in buying any single thing and they were, furthermore, beginning to ruin the time that we just wanted to spend together without being hounded. Telling vendors that you are local, whether or not you have an accent, always helps with price and sometimes with aggression. I recognize these business men and women need to try their hardest to make their livings, but it is hard to be anything but unfriendly when sightseeing becomes a confrontation.
Once on the Zambian side, a secluded cafe up a steep set of stairs on the right offers refreshments and an overlooking view of the river, bridge,and distant Vic Falls Hotel. Next to this cafe is a small (free!) museum about the bridge.
Aggressive river, aggressive vendors, and aggressive bungee businessmen? They're nothing compared to aggressive vervet monkeys. Watch out for these kings of the bridge!
(first blogpost picture by friend Lucy Fisher!)
